I recently played through all of the game and even got all trophies, so it really is a fun game, but there are lots of drawbacks in my opinion (some spoilers regarding the gameplay might be present):
First of all, I think it's more of a glorified action-game with RPG-elements. That isn't a bad thing, but it's _Final Fantasy_, so I expected an RPG, maybe with action-elements. This point really is very controversial. For the record, I loved FFXII's gameplay, so somebody who hated it might be more into XIII's than me. But why do I think it is more of an action-game? Well, as has been said before, there are no towns and almost no interacting with NPCs. No character levels (though I like the crystarium, but the sphere board was better in my opinion), set limits how strong you can get each chapter (and for that matter, the enemies are set up in such a way that they become increasingly harder as you go on: the first enemy in a chapter might be two soldiers, the next one are three soldiers, the next one one tough soldier and two normal soldiers, and so on... really like an action-game).
This goes hand-in-hand with the gameplay - especially the battles - being very fast-paced. This can be good, and bad. The bad part is that if you don't react on time or make just a little mistake (switching to ATT-ATT-ATT instead of DEF-DEF-DEF...) you might be instantly dead, especially with the harder battles.
Furthermore, you only control the leader of the party, the two other members are controlled by the AI. And I hate the AI. In XII, you could at least give some outlines what they should do in the form of gambits - in XIII, you don't have any influence. I just fucking hate it if my enhancer casts Haste last (after casting some spells I don't even need). Or if you have more than one attacker in the group and you want everybody to attack the same enemy but they just won't. What I also hate are the AoE-spells of enemies. It's just pure luck whether your characters are all bunched up or whether they are more spaced out so the attack won't hit everybody.
By the way, story-wise, it really IS that linear. You just have to follow the path all the time. It even conveniently displays where you have to go with a star. As has been said, almost every RPG is linear in some fashion - but FFXIII is just in another dimension of linearity. I had to laugh when I read the description of one of the areas "it's easy to get lost in this forest". It's not easy, it's fucking IMPOSSIBLE to get lost. Well, if you don't get confused because you never know which direction is north and which is south on the map.
There are no sub-quests worth mentioning in the game. You can do the missions, but they're just the same enemies over and over again. No really unique ones (just stronger versions of enemies you've already met), and the so-called "story" to this missions is almost non-existent. Just a plain piece of text you can read each mission.
Nevertheless, it's a really good game worth playing. It just didn't meet my expectations.
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